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ISTANBUL
Area:
5.712 km²
"There, God and
human, nature and art are together, they have created such a
perfect place that it is valuable to see." Lamartine’s famous
poetic line reveals his love for Istanbul, describing the
embracing of two continents, with one arm reaching out to Asia
and the other to Europe.
Istanbul, once
known as the capital of capital cities, has many unique features.
It is the only city in the world to straddle two continents, and
the only one to have been a capital during two consecutive
empires - Christian and Islamic. Once capital of the Ottoman
Empire, Istanbul still remains the commercial, historical and
cultural pulse of Turkey, and its beauty lies in its ability to
embrace its contradictions. Ancient and modern, religious and
secular, Asia and Europe, mystical and earthly all co-exist
here.
Its variety is
one of Istanbul’s greatest attractions: The ancient mosques,
palaces, museums and bazaars reflect its diverse history. The
thriving shopping area of Taksim buzzes with life and
entertainment. And the serene beauty of the Bosphorus, Princes
Islands and parks bring a touch of peace to the otherwise
chaotic metropolis.
 The
Bosphorus: A stay in Istanbul is not complete without a
traditional and unforgettable boat trip up the Bosphorus, the
winding strait that separates Europe and Asia. Its shores offer
a delightful mixture of past and present, grand splendour and
simple beauty. Modem hotels stand next to yali (shorefront
wooden villas), marble palaces alongside rustic stone fortresses,
and elegant compounds neighbour small fishing villages. The best
way to see the Bosphorus is to board one of the passenger boats
that regularly zigzag along the shores. Embark at Eminonu, and
stop alternately on the Asian and European sides of the strait.
The round trip excursion, very reasonably priced, takes about
six hours. If you wish a private.
 Golden
Horn: This horn-shaped estuary divides European Istanbul.
One of the best natural harbours in the world, it was once the
centre for the Byzantine and Ottoman navies and commercial
shipping interests. Today, attractive parks and promenades line
the shores, a picturesque scene especially as the sun goes down
over the water. At Fener and Balat, neighbourhoods midway up the
Golden Horn, there are entire streets filled with old wooden
houses, churches, and synagogues dating from Byzantine and
Ottoman times. The Orthodox Patriarchy resides at Fener and a
little further up the Golden Horn at Eyup, are some wonderful
examples of Ottoman architecture. Muslim pilgrims from all over
the world visit Eyup Camii and Tomb of Eyup, the Prophet
Mohammed’s standard bearer, and it is one of the holiest places
in Islam. The area is a still a popular burial place, and the
hills above the mosque are dotted with modern gravestones
interspersed with ornate Ottoman stones. The Pierre Loti Cafe,
atop the hill overlooking the shrine and the Golden Horn, is a
wonderful place to enjoy the tranquility of the view.
 Beyoğlu
and Taksim: Beyoglu is an interesting example of a district
with European-influenced architecture, from a century before.
Europe’s second oldest subway, Tunel was built by the French in
1875, must be also one of the shortest – offering a one-stop
ride to start of Taksim. Near to Tunel is the Galata district,
whose Galata Tower became a famous symbols of Istanbul, and the
top of which offers a tremendous 180 degree view of the city.
From the Tunel
area to Taksim square is one of the city’s focal points for
shopping, entertainment and urban promenading: Istiklal Cadesi
is a fine example of the contrasts and compositions of Istanbul;
fashion shops, bookshops, cinemas, markets, restaurants and even
hand-carts selling trinkets and simit (sesame bread snack)
ensure that the street is packed throughout the day until late
into the night. The old tramcars re-entered into service, which
shuttle up and down this fascinating street, and otherwise the
street is entirely pedestrianised. There are old embassy
buildings, Galatasaray High School, the colourful ambience of
Balik Pazari (Fish Bazaar) and restaurants in Cicek Pasaji (Flower
Passage). Also on this street is the oldest church in the area,
St Mary’s Draperis dating back to 1789, and the Franciscan
Church of St Antoine, demolished and then rebuilt in 1913.
The street ends
at Taksim Square, a huge open plaza, the hub of modern Istanbul
and always crowded, crowned with an imposing monument
celebrating Attaturk and the War of Independence. The main
terminal of the new subway is under the square, adjacent is a
noisy bus terminal, and at the north end is the Ataturk Cultural
Centre, one of the venues of the Istanbul Theatre Festival.
Several five-star hotels are dotted around this area, like the
Hyatt, Intercontinental and Hilton (the oldest of its kind in
the city). North of the square is the Istanbul Military Museum.
Taksim and
Beyoglu have for centuries been the centre of nightlife, and now
there are many lively bars and clubs off Istiklal Cadesi,
including some of the only gay venues in the city. Beyoglu is
also the centre of the more bohemian arts scene.
Sultanahmet:
Many places of tourist interest are concentrated in Sultanahmet,
heart of the Imperial Centre of the Ottoman Empire. The most
important places in this area, all of which are described in
detail in the “Places of Interest” section, are Topkapi Palace,
Aya Sofia, Sultan Ahmet Camii (the Blue Mosque), the Hippodrome,
Kapali Carsi (Covered Market), Yerebatan Sarnici and the Museum
of Islamic Art.
In addition to
this wonderful selection of historical and architectural sites,
Sultanahmet also has a large concentration of carpet and
souvenir shops, hotels and guesthouses, cafes, bars  and
restaurants, and travel agents.
Ortaköy:
Ortakoy was a resort for
the Ottoman rulers because of its attractive location on the
Bosphorus, and is still a popular spot for residents and
visitors. The village is within a triangle of a mosque, church
and synagogue, and is near Ciragan Palace, Kabatas High School,
Feriye, Princess Hotel.
The name Ortakoy
reflects the university students and teachers who would gather
to drink tea and discuss life, when it was just a small fishing
village. These days, however, that scene has developed into a
suburb with an increasing amount of expensive restaurants, bars,
shops and a huge market. The fishing, however, lives on and the
area is popular with local anglers, and there is now a huge
waterfront tea-house which is crammed at weekends and holidays.
Sarıyer:
The first sight of
Sarıyer is where the Bosphorus connects with the Black Sea,
after the bend in the river after Tarabya. Around this area, old
summer houses, embassies and fish restaurants line the river,
and a narrow road which separates it from Buyukdere, continues
along to the beaches of Kilyos.
Sarıyer and
Rumeli Kavağı are the final wharfs along the European side
visited by the Bosphorus boat trips. Both these districts,
famous for their fish restaurants along with Anadolu Kavagi, get
very crowded at weekends and holidays with Istanbul residents
escaping the city.
After these
points, the Bosphorus is lined with tree-covered cliffs and
little habitation. The Sadberk Hanim Museum, just before Sariyer,
is an interesting place to visit; a collection of archaeological
and ethnographic items, housed in two wooden houses. A few
kilometres away is the huge Belgrade Forest, once a haunting
ground of the Ottomans, and now a popular weekend retreat into
the largest forest area in the city.
 Üsküdar:
Relatively unknown to tourists, the suburb of Üsküdar, on the
Asian side of the Bosphorus, is one of the most attractive
suburbs. Religiously conservative in its background, it has a
tranquil atmosphere and some fine examples of imperial and
domestic architecture.
The Iskele, or
Mihrimah Camii is opposite the main ferry pier, on a high
platform with a huge covered porch in front, often occupied by
older local men watching life around them. Opposite this is Yeni
Valide Camii, built in 1710, and the Valide Sultan’s green tomb
rather like a giant birdcage. The Cinili Mosque takes its name
from the beautiful tiles which decorate the interior, and was
built in 1640.
Apart from
places of religious interest, Uskudar is also well known as a
shopping area, with old market streets selling traditional local
produce, and a good fleamarket with second hand furniture. There
are plenty of good restaurants and cafes with great views of the
Bosphorus and the rest of the city, along the quayside. In the
direction of Haydarpasa is the lhe Karaca Ahmet Cemetery, the
largest Muslim graveyard in Istanbul. The front of the Camlica
hills lie at the ridge of area and also offer great panoramic
views of the islands and river.
Kadıköy:
Further south along the
Bosphorus towards the Sea of Marmara, Kadıköy has developed into
a lively area with up-market shopping, eating and entertainment
making it popular especially with wealthy locals. Once prominent
in the history of Christianity, the 5th century hosted important
consul meetings here, but there are few reminders of that age.
It is one of the improved districts of Istanbul over the last
century, and fashionable area to promenade along the waterfront
in the evenings, especially around the marinas and yacht clubs.
Bagdat Caddesi
is one of the most trendy – and label-conscious – fashion
shopping streets, and for more down-to-earth goods, the Gen Azim
Gunduz Caddesi is the best place for clothes, and the bit pazari
on Ozelellik Sokak is good for browsing through junk. In the
district of Moda, is the Benadam art gallery, as well as many
foreign cuisine restaurants and cafes.
Haydarpaşa:
To the north of Kadikoy is Haydarpasa, and the train station
built in 1908 with Prussain-style architecture which was the
first stop along the Baghdad railway. Now it is the main station
going to eastbound destinations both within Turkey, and
internationally. There are tombs and monuments dedicated to the
English and French soldiers who lost their lives during the
Crimean War (1854-56), near the military hospital. The north-west
wing of the 19th Century Selimiye Barracks once housed the
hospital, used by Florence Nightingale to care for soldiers, and
remains to honour her memory.
Polonezköy:
Polonezköy, although still within the city, is 25 km. away from
the centre and not easy to reach by public transport. Translated
as “village of the Poles”, the village has a fascinating history:
It was established in 1848 by Prince Czartorisky, leader of the
Polish nationals who was granted exile in the Ottoman Empire to
escape oppression in the Balkans. During his exile, he succeeded
in establishing a community of Balkans, which still survives, on
the plot of land sold to him by a local monastery.
Since the 1970s
the village has become a popular place with local Istanbulites,
who buy their pig meat there (pig being forbidden under Islamic
law and therefore difficult to get elsewhere). All the Poles
have since left the village, and the place is inhabited now by
wealthy city people, living in the few remaining Central
European style wooden houses with pretty balconies.
What attracts
most visitors to Polonezkoy is its vast green expanse, which was
designated Istanbul’s first national park, and the walks though
forests with streams and wooden bridges. Because of its
popularity, it gets crowded at weekends and the hotels are
usually full.
Kilyos:
Kilyos is the nearest beach resort to the city, on the Black Sea
coast on the European side of the Bosphorus. Once a Greek
fishing village, it has quickly been developed as a holiday-home
development, and gets very crowded in summer. Because of its
ease to get there, 25km and plenty of public transport, it is
good for a day trip, and is a popular weekend getaway with
plenty of hotels, and a couple of campsites.
Şile:
A pleasant, small holiday town, Şile lies 50km from Üsküdar on
the Black Sea coast and some people even live here and commute
into Istanbul. The white sandy beaches are easily accessible
from the main highway, lying on the west, as well as a series of
small beaches at the east end. The town itself if perched on a
clifftop over looking the bay tiny island. There is an
interesting French-built black-and-white striped lighthouse, and
14th century Genoese castle on the nearby island. Apart from its
popular beaches, the town is also famous for its craft; Sile
bezi, a white muslin fabric a little like cheesecloth, which the
local women embroider and sell their products on the street, as
well as all over Turkey.
The town has
plenty of accommodation available, hotels, guest houses and
pansiyons, although can get very crowded at weekends and
holidays as it is very popular with people from Istanbul for a
getaway, especially in the summer. There are small restaurants
and bars in the town.
Prince’s
Islands: Also known as
Istanbul Islands, there are eight within one hour from the city,
in the Marmara Sea. Boats ply the islands from Sirkeci, Kabatas
and Bostanci, with more services during the summer. These
islands, on which monasteries were established during the
Byzantine period, was a popular summer retreat for palace
officials. It is still a popular escape from the city, with
wealthier owning summer houses.
Buyukada The
largest and most popular is Buyukada (the Great Island). Large
wooden mansions still remain from the 19th century when wealthy
Greek and Armernian bankers built them as holiday villas. The
island has always been a place predominantly inhabited by
minorities, hence Islam has never had a strong presence here.
Buyukada has
long had a history of people coming here in exile or retreat;
its most famous guest being Leon Trotsky, who stayed for four
years writing ‘The History of the Russian Revolution’. The
monastery of St George also played host to the granddaughter of
Empress Irene, and the royal princess Zoe, in 1012.
The island
consists of two hills, both surmounted by monasteries, with a
valley between. Motor vehicles are banned, so getting around the
island can be done by graceful horse and carriage, leaving from
the main square off Isa Celebi Sokak. Bicycles can also be hired.
The southern
hill, Yule Tepe, is the quieter of the two and also home of St
George’s Monastery. It consists of a series of chapels on three
levels, the site of which is a building dating back to the 12th
century. In Byzantine times it was used as an asylum, with iron
rings on the church floors used to restrain patients. On the
northern hill is the monastery Isa Tepe, a 19th century house.
The entire
island is lively and colourful, with many restaurants, hotels,
tea houses and shops. There are huge well-kept houses, trim
gardens, and pine groves, as well as plenty of beach and picnic
areas.
 Burgazada
Smaller and less of a tourist infrastructure is Burgazada. The
famous Turkish novelist, Sait Faik Abasıyanık lived here, and
his house has been turned into a museum dedicated to his work,
and retains a remarkable tranquil and hallowed atmosphere.
Heybeliada
‘Island of the Saddlebag’, because of its shape, is loved for
its natural beauty and beaches. It also has a highly prestigious
and fashionable watersports club in the northwest of the island.
One of its best-known landmarks is the Greek Orthodox School of
Theology, with an important collection of Byzantine manuscripts.
The school sits loftily on the northern hill, but permission is
needed to enter, from the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate in Fener.
The Deniz Harp Okulu, the Naval High School, is on the east side
of the waterfront near the jetty, which was originally the Naval
War Academy set up in 1852, then a high school since 1985.
Walking and cycling are popular here, plus isolated beaches as
well as the public Yoruk Beach, set in a magnificent bay. There
are plenty of good local restaurants and tea houses, especially
along Ayyıldız Caddesi, and the atmosphere is one of a close
community.
 Environment:
Wide beaches of Kilyos at European side of Black Sea at 25th
km. outside Istanbul, are attracting Istanbul residents during
summer months. Belgrade Forest, inside from Black Sea, at
European Side is the widest forest around Istanbul. Istanbul
residents, at week ends, come here for family picnic with
brazier at its shadows. 7 old water tank and some natural
resources in the region compose a different atmosphere. Moğlova
Aqueduct, which is constructed by Mimar Sinan during 16th
century among Ottoman aqueducts, is the greatest one. 800 m.
long Sultan Suleyman Aqueduct, which is passing over Golf Club,
and also a piece of art of Mimar Sinan is one of the longest
aqueducts within  Turkey.
Polonezköy,
which is 25 km. away from Istanbul, is founded at Asia coast
during 19th century by Polish immigrants. Polonezköy, for
walking in village atmosphere, travels by horse, and tasting
traditional Polish meals served by relatives of initial settlers,
is the resort point of Istanbul residents. Beaches, restaurants
and hotels of Şile at Black Sea coast and 70 km. away from
Üsküdar, are turning this place into one of the most cute
holiday places of Istanbul. Region which is popular in
connection with tourism, is the place where famous Şile cloth is
produced.
Bayramoğlu -
Darıca Bird Paradise and Botanic Park is a unique resort place
38 km. away from Istanbul. This gargantuan park with its
trekking roads, restaurants is full of bird species and plants,
coming from various parts of the world.
Sweet Eskihisar
fisherman borough, to whose marina can be anchored by yachtsmen
after daily voyages in Marmara Sea is at south east of Istanbul.
Turkey's 19th century famous painter, Osman Hamdi Bey's house in
borough is turned into a museum. Hannibal's tomb between
Eskihisar and Gebze is one of the sites around a Byzantium
castle.
There are lots
of Istanbul residents' summer houses in popular holiday place 65
km. away from Istanbul, Silivri. This is a huge holiday place
with magnificent restaurants, sports and health centers.
Conference center is also attracting businessmen, who are
escaping rapid tempo of urban life for "cultural tourism" and
business - holiday mixed activities. Scheduled sea bus service
is connecting Istanbul to Silivri.
Islands within
Marmara Sea, which is adorned with nine islands, was the
banishing place of the Byzantium princes. Today they are now
wealthy Istanbul residents' escaping places for cool winds
during summer months and 19th century smart houses. Biggest one
of the islands is Büyükada. You can have a marvelous phaeton
travel between pine trees or have a swim within one of the
numerous bays around islands!
Other popular
islands are Kınalı, Sedef, Burgaz and Heybeliada. Regular ferry
voyages are connecting islands to both Europe and Asia coasts.
There is a rapid sea bus service from Kabataş during summers.
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